Why Bamboo? 

It's an elegant, practical and environmentally responsible choice. It's hard to argue with a wood substitute that matures in three years, need no replanting, or pesticides. 

Botanically, it's not a wood but a grass. It is exceptionally hard, more than Red Oak! The dimensional change with moisture content is less than that for most common hardwoods. It is about 50% more stable than Maple.

It's been used in construction in Asia for for thousands of years.

It comes in a light natural color or a dark amber "carbonized" bamboo, which is achieved by pressure steaming the bamboo.  This darkens the whole board.  Because it's not a stain, there are no problems with resanding.

Horizontal - is also called: Plain press
Vertical - is also called: Side press
 
 

 

Carbonized Horizontal Natural Horizontal Carbonized Vertical Natural Vertical


Installation:

In general, bamboo flooring can be installed the same way as any regular hardwood floor. All material (planks/glue/moisture barrier) should be brought into the area to be installed at least 5 days at room temperature prior to installation . Bamboo should be exposed during this time. Temperature and humidity should be in normal usage levels in the area of installation and maintained at those levels after installation. Surfaces must be clean, dry, smooth and free of dirt, wax, oil, paint and curing agents that would interfere with adhesive bond. Oil resilient floors can be installed over provided above conditions apply. Wood subfloors should be sanded level prior to new installation. Concrete subfloor must have all cracks and holes filled, we also strongly recommend that you moisture seal a concrete subfloor. Although Bamboo flooring is more stable than wood and more resistant to moisture than wood, it should not be in contact with any wet areas.

All flooring, including bamboo flooring, displays some slight
color variation board to board. Unpacking and laying out ahead
of the installer (called "racking") four or five cartons of
flooring so that color variations can be mixed in a random
pattern and not consolidated in a single area.

Begin laying the flooring from the end of the room that is the aesthetic focal point. Keep in mind you might have to top nail the last row of boards, and you want this to occur at a visually "unimportant" end of the room.

Make certain that sufficient expansion space is left at the perimeter of the installation. In climate areas where the humidity of the room varies seasonally very little, a minimum expansion space of 1/4 inch is recommended. In areas where humidity variation is high from season to season, an expansion
space 3/4 inch is suggested.

The end joints of the each board should be randomly positioned one to another.  This creates a tighter joint, and a stronger floor. 

Nail down

In general, planks should be started square with the room and parallel to its longer dimension by positioning them with a chalk line, leaving 1/4 inch expansion space from base plate or wall. This space may be covered by molding. To make sure the starter rows are firmly in place by wedging or face nailing. Second and further row shall be blind nailed directly above tongue at 45-50 degree angle to the face. Fasteners should be spaced at 10 to12 inch intervals with a minimum of 2 fasteners per piece. Do not use staples.


Glue down

Use an adhesive designed for wood flooring. If moisture level is high in the area, use an appropriate moisture barrier. Use 3/16 x 3/8 x 9/16 inch V notched trowel. Adhesive may be applied to substrate with suitable trowel and immediately place flooring onto wet adhesive. Another method is to apply adhesive to substrate with trowel and allow it to become tacky and install flooring onto this tacky adhesive. Roll finish immediately with a roller. In general follow the adhesive manufacturers directions. Leave 1/4 inch space between flooring and walls to allow for expansion.

Radiant heat

To minimize trauma to the floor, heating process should be gradual, based on small increment increases in relation to the outside temperature. All subfloors should have the proper moisture test done. A 6-8 mil. polyethylene vapor barrier should be installed over slab radiant heat systems and tape all seams of barrier. For double protection, foam sheeting of 1/6 inch can be laid over the vapor barrier. When the slab has cured, turn the heat in for a few days before installation. In general, to install flooring over radiant heat, these systems can be applied; floating on laminated/floating on solid/singer layer of plywood on sleepers/double plywood floating/tongue and groove nail to sleepers/direct nail to subfloor.

 Maintenance